yom rishon
5 AM:
As I prepare to gather my paperwork at the baggage claim counter, I look over to the side to see at least one hundred bag unclaimed, sitting there sadly, like a junkyard. Then I turn all the way around and blink to see, not just one or two parties, but at least 50 people standing in the line. They had arrived from Prague, looking to find their suitcases as well.
6 AM:
Jerusalem begins to awake as the sun peeps from behind the horizon. There is always something about watching the sun rise, because you can see the rays but not the sun itself. It’s as if one was waiting for the most important person but it would take a while, just because she/he is the most important. I attempt to make out the architecture, the streets, and the signs to locate myself in the city as the shared cab (shreut) weaves its way through the city to drop off passengers.
6:30 AM:
A day and half later, I finally make to my grandfather’s apartment. “Chaim” greeted me with a big, expectant smile. He was already up, davening (praying). I hope that he is praying for my bag’s safe return.
11 A.M.:
I am at Super-Pharm, preparing to re-stock my toiletries that had been lost. There is one aisle lined with international skincare and cosmetic brands and I want to see if they had any familiar American brands. Clean & Clear in another aisle do not satisfy me and I wonder if there are more options. I ask the first woman if there are any Clean & Clear face cleaners. She leads me to the same shelves that I just looked at. She mentions that they’re all on sale. I smile and ask about Neutrogena. She takes me over to that international aisle. I thank her, todah rabah. I look and see that many are 40% off so I take a few. I walk away. Then I am tapped by a second woman, with a cellphone in her hand, and she says that she wants to be sure that these bottles are discounted. So she uses her cellhphone program (You know you’re in Israel if you see an awesome piece of technology that you’ve never seen before). I thank her and walk away. I meander around the store to the other side and see L’Oreal. Just as I bend down to read the labels, I am suddenly approached by a third woman and a fourth woman. They eagerly point out how cheap (zol!!!) the products are and they’re very, very good. At this point, I am quite bit bewildered by constant attention nagging. I blank out on my Hebrew for “go away” so I use my rude English and my hands to push them away from me. They seem slightly offended (everyone gets offended anyway in Israel). The bottle is too much, even with 40% discount. So I move to the line and purchase everything. The price screen is not working so I do not see what the total is. After receiving the receipt, I look at it and my eyes are about to pop out. 315 shekels?! That’s close to $90! I examine the receipt more closely to see what products racked up the cost. The two Neutrogena bottles are the culprits. I had thought the stickers read 19.99 shekels (which I thought it was a terrific deal) but the receipt says 79.99. I sigh in a huff and go back to the register. I give them the receipt and two bottles, while grabbing one Clean & Clear bottle for an exchange. I say that these bottles are too expensive and I had thought the stickers said 19.99, not 79.99. Manager is apparently right there and says to me that they are 40% off. I shake my head and respond no, I want to return them. He and the female cashier look at me with disbelief. They stammer and say how cheap they are. I grit my teeth and firmly tell them, “Not as cheap as in the United States!” They shut up and proceed with the t
yom shnee
11 AM
I am walking through the new Mamilla mall. I stop at the Gap and Ahava. The Gap literally has nothing for me. Ahava has a special sale on its hand cream, 2 for 140 shekels. Excellent… but I think I will try to get that at the airport, duty-free.
12 PM
I tread carefully down the alley in the Christian Quarter the Old City of Jerusalem. I dislike this because there are steps with small ramps for carts. It is easy to slip and fall if one does not know how to maneuver this.
12:15 PM
I’m walking about in the Muslim Quarter, thinking about where to eat. I find a baklava shop and buy a few pieces. Yum. I keep an eye out for any bargains, on anything. Nothing is to be found. However I do find that Neutrogena face scrub for 45 shekels in a small pharmacy, compared to 80 shekels (at regular price) in Super Pharm. Only catch is that it’s cash-only.
12:45 PM
It is glorious outside. I have told a few people that I would be visiting the new wing in the Israel Museum today. If I would make that happen and make it to Chaim’s office for an appointment at 4:30, I should leave the Center by 2 PM. Maybe I’ll go. Maybe not… I just want to relax, after two days of insanity. The tracks are clearly laid out on Jaffa Road. I wonder when the trains are coming.
2 PM
I’m still chatting with my dad over Google Talk. I am sitting in Cafe Hillel, where the waitress remembers me from the previous day and brings me an English menu without me asking for it. Sitting in a cafe with a cup of cappuccino with a small bowl of two chocolate pieces just feels so European. It’s the beautiful thing about living in Israel. The food and leisure culture is distinctively European, but the technology, hype, and media are American. In the moment, I decide not to bother with the Israel Museum. I am too concerned about my bag and I am just too tired to soak in anything more than what is going on around me.
3:45 PM
I put on my spanking new black Converse sneakers. For the first time in 5 days, my feet can finally breathe after wearing those leather boots.
4:30 PM
Chaim greets me and frantically tells me that the Polish students are here already. “They came early!” We walk quickly to the office where the two Polish students are waiting patiently with kind smiles on their faces. They are very handsome and friendly-looking. We begin to talk eagerly about this shtetl project and they offer their help with connections in Poland. The keys, I think, are access to Polish-English translators and commitment from Poles in our desired region. Chaim appears positive about the whole project as the Poles have enlightened him with their current views of Jews in Poland. We want to make a trip to Poland within the next few years.
8 PM
The walk from Emek Refaim to Angel Bakery is beautiful. I relish in the fact that there are no snow on the ground. The dark streets between Emek Refaim and the intersection on King George is a bit dark but I had walked here often enough to know it is okay. I am at the bakery now, determining what small treats I would like. I ask for two chocolate rugalech. Then I see something that looks like it has poppyseeds but I forget my Hebrew for one. So I point to the treats with one finger and the woman says, “ahat?” Ahhhhh…. yes, “ahat, bevekesha.” I am slowly relearning my Hebrew, just bits and pieces, each day. I count quietly on the way home. But I forget what’s 10.
8:30 PM
“Chaim, what’s ivrit for 10?”
“Ester.”
“Oh, right.”
yom shleeshee
11:50 AM
Chaim and I arrive at Ronit’s home. We are greeted by a Chinese maid. She is very young but dresses hip in her jeans, black framed glasses, a funky t-shirt, and sneakers. We say hello to Ronit, who is wearing all red. I take a whiff of an old lady’s scent. I suddenly wonder why I agreed to join this lunch but I keep quiet. Something could come out of this.
12:10 PM
The Chinese maid is excellent. She controls the walker with her foot while holding the door as Ronit makes her way down a ramp. She navigates the Jerusalem traffic very well. I think, “Wow, she really gets a lot of perks here!”
2 PM
As we watched the traffic ahead of us on our way back from lunch to Chaim’s office, Ronit says, “The Israelis drive the way they want to!” The Chinese maid says that Chinese drivers are worse.
3 PM
Chaim and I arrive at our dear friend’s shiva. I want to say hello and do a good mitzvah by being there and just seeing them.
3;45 PM
Friend says, “I’d much rather have a cup of coffee with you than this!”
7:15 PM
Chaim and I sit in the audience of a panel discussing Joe Schwartz‘s activities during the Holocaust. He was the director of the Joint Distribution Committee- Europe. My Hebrew slowly comes back, especially that the panelists are speaking clearly and not too quickly. Chaim whispers to me that one of the panelist is Yehuda Bauer. Oh. My. God. I want to meet him.
10 PM
Chaim and I get into a vigorous discussion about Jewish organizations’ role during the Holocaust.
yom riviee
10 AM
I’m trying to figure out this washing machine. The dryer is very old too. I hope that my clothes will not get ruined.
12:00 PM
I am at the best, best, best bakery of all Jerusalem, Marizpan Bakery. It is located in the Mehane Yehuda Shuk. The bakery had re-organized itself a bit since the last time. Nonetheless, I choose my poison carefully, including three pieces of their notorious and tantalizing chocolate rugalech.
12:15 PM
Shuk is clean and humming. I make my through to see what’s changed. Not too much. It is a pleasant walk through. The produce is just beautiful, as usual. Strawberries are in season here in Israel, along with pomegranates and persimmons.
12:45 PM
I return from errands. Washing machine isn’t moving. Something’s wrong here. Then I push a button. It starts. Tov.
1:40 PM
Washing machine is still going. It’s time to make it to the Israel Museum.
2:15 PM
I whip out my credit card, preparing to pay 48 shekels for the entrance fee. I do not pay much attention until I see the slip. 24 shekels. The woman is kind enough to give me a disability discount because she sees my cochlear implant. Amazing. For the first time in 25 years, I actually get a disability discount anywhere! I love Israel.
2:30 PM – 4 PM
I am wishing that a certain friend of mine and my mother are here with me to appreciate all this beautiful art and artifacts. I am completely in awe of the new archaeological wing. You cannot see anything like this anywhere else in the world. The artifacts are in pristine condition. Some of the highlights: an ancient bull’s horn, readable lithographs in Greek and Latin (including an edict for Jews to desert their religion, just before the Maccabees’ war), gorgeous mosaic floors lifted from the Old City of Jerusalem’s Jewish Quarter and several synagogues in the Judean or Galilee regions, and interesting idol statutes from ancient Egypt. The narrative is excellent, balanced, and informative. It strives to tell the story of The Land, in a non-sectarian, non-political manner. It describes The Land as the crossroads of many cultures and one can see the influences. The narrative begins millions of years ago and ends just as Ottomans seized The Land away from the Crusaders. It is a long but worthwhile exhibit. I am a museum junkie so my stay in the exhibit is longer than most people would say… but I also appreciate so much of the art.
4:30 PM
I am completely at peace while walking home to the apartment, just as the sun begins to set. I also suddenly remember that it’s winter. Yesterday was the first day and I did not even notice. It’s difficult to see any signs of winter or Christmas here.
8:30 PM
Chaim and I are at Joy’s Restaurant on Emek Refaim to have dinner with friends of his who are visiting from the United States. I immediately like the woman although I can see that she is very strong and expects people to listen to her. I meet a cute guy and we are talking easily. We all share vegetable appetizers.
9:50 PM
Chaim and I are in the cab on our way home. I ask Chaim who exactly was that guy. Chaim replies that he’s a friend and is the husband of the woman next to the friend’s daughter. I complain, “He’s married?! Where are the nice, single Jewish guys?!”
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