Last Shabbat

Since I couldn't quite break my habit of going to Tel Aviv.... I went. Since I had already gone to the shuk and felt that I've pretty much done everything that I wanted to do in Jerusalem that's possible to do on a Friday, I didn't see any reason to stick around. I had enough of the Old City- it really felt like it was part of me and I would carry its magic with me all the time.

So I hopped on the bus to Tel Aviv- not crowded but every seat was filled. I was slightly disturbed by the young Israels behind me who heard me talking in perfect English on the phone with the Bachs, and wanted to practice their English with me. It was tough because they were all talking at once with heavy Israeli accents. Then the soldiers across from me tried to clarified some things.... they ended up wanting to invite me along with them to the beach. I said that I'd look for them if I wanted to join them since we're going to the same beach (Jerusalem beach). They were all very cute looking and super friendly because they wanted to share their grapes with everyone near them. I'm telling you, they wanted to hear more English because they demanded an explanation of why I didn't want their grapes (just didn't feel like it)! When I hung up with the Bachs, one of the girls shoved her phone to me and asked me to talk in the phone even though I didn't hear anyone on the other end. I rationalized that they just really wanted to hear more English!

I stopped at Super-Pharm to get some water and sun lotion (stupidly forgot!). I stayed at the beach for about 2 1/2 hours. I noticed how quiet the water was that people were literally sitting in the water and just chatting and relaxing. Just a month ago, there were roaring waves that could make anyone exhausted at the end of the day! In a way, I was kind of glad because now I'm good with the beach- don't feel the need to go more often now that the fun is gone. Also, when I realized that it was truly the end of July, it meant that summer was more than half over... I felt kind of sad. One more month and I'd be back at Colgate. I felt really happy that I was spending most of my summer in Israel.

Afterwards, I met up with two Israeli guys- a soldier and his friend. We just talked and walked around central Tel Aviv. I really liked them and it was fun for me to listen to their conversation in Hebrew to see how much Hebrew I could understand. I picked up words here and there. Like the kids on the bus, they wanted to talk in English with me- insisting that Hebrew's such a hard language to learn and I'd need more time... in a way, it was fine because my brain isn't used to switching like a light switch between English and Hebrew. Then we met up with their friends at the mall and hung out for a while until it was time for me to head back to Jerusalem. I really wanted to stay around and just catch the shreut but unfortunately A) I had already bought a round-trip ticket on the bus and couldn't afford to waste 15 shekelim and B) I had to be at the Bachs by 6:30 for dinner and I required a shower and a change of clean clothes.... So the soldier walked back to the shreut... He was the most beautiful Israeli I had met with a great English accent. It was awesome to finally have my own moment with a soldier after waiting all this time (though I did meet others but not like this). Of course, I didn't totally see him in the same way as most American girls do, to me, he's just a regular guy who is just serving in the Army like everyone else in his age.

On the way back, while attempting to read a few more pages of Emma, I kept thinking about my time with the Israelis in Tel Aviv and how far I've come in the past seven months. I realized that even though the language barrier is there but my comfort level is so high that I was willing to make an effort in blending in with the crowd. It's not to say that I didn't want to spend my last Shabbat with Americans but it was the point where I'd just rather spend time hanging out with the locals and listening in Hebrew and make the most of my time. It also made me realize that I could do it- really make friends with the Israelis and be part of their company. Sure, there are some things that I still can't get over like how late they stay out but for most part, I've accepted all the differences between the American and Israeli cultures and attitudes.

This also made me think back to my conversation with Victoria, a friend of the Ravids who I met back on Shauvot, on Wednesday. She made aliyah here in 2001-2002 and got her Masters in Israeli Studies at Hebrew University. Her advice made very good sense- she wished that she had done the 5-6 month ulpan and then enroll in the university directly and take regular university courses with the Israeli students instead of being isolated in the American bubble at Rothberg. I inclined to agree with her in that- I felt that all during ulpan, I just wanted to get out of the Boyar Building and go around the campus and hang out with other students during breaks.

I think this process is called "moving on." Essentially, time to really meet with the locals.

Unfortunately, that won't last too long as I have to put on the pause button and rewind back to my life in the States on Wednesday.

I don't think I'll ever forget that comforting feeling that I had hanging out with Ronnie and his friends. Even when I was just being slightly bothered by the young Israelis on the bus.

Even this feeling continued when I found two Hebrew U students near the bus stop by the station and cooperated with them to share a cab back. I didn't feel weird or have that sense of alienated feeling. It was funny though with the three of us attempting to speak a mix of English and Hebrew since they spoke terrible English and I with Hebrew.

My last Shabbat dinner with the Bachs was wonderful and special. It's amazing how my relationship with them has changed over the past 6 months, mostly in the past 3 months when I saw them more often. I viewed them as my eyewitnesses to my attitude and physical being in Israel for GP (my grandpa) since Nate is his best friend. I felt comfortable enough to bring up heated topics at dinner such as the occupation of the West Bank, the Arabs, etc. It got quite political between me and Nate that afer an hour, Tobi told us we had enough! She served delicious chicken by the way.

It was scary to hear Nate say that I'm in for a huge psychological shock when I return to the States. I knew that I'd be in for a reversal cultural shock but to hear it from someone else who knows me well sort of hit me in the heart. He must realized more than I do on how much part of Israel I am in that actually settling in American will be much harder than I will expect. I told them that I'm already in shock from living with my American roommates and receiving magazines from Mom. I am trying to ease a bit by actually reading the articles in CNN and NYT instead of scanning over the headlines so I can relate to the news better when I go back. Yes, that's right, my American roommates are still surprising me because of their behavior. I still haven't gotten over it even though it's been nearly 6 weeks!!!

I didn't quite see this feeling coming when it was time to say good night just because I knew that I'd be back in Israel. After hugs and kisses, I started walking towards the door, then I paused... hesitated... I got the feeling that I just didn't want to say good bye... I wasn't quite ready to let go of them. I turned around and Tobi and I hugged each other again. I quickly left as not to stay one more second. As I went down the stairs, I almost began to cry, realizing that if it was going to be this tough to say bye to the Bachs, I can't imagine how it would be when I leave the Ravids on Tuesday. I almost didn't want to leave them last time because I knew that next time I'd see her, it'd be my last 24 hours in Israel.

I don't know what to do. But Colgate and my advisors, Kira and Prof. Kepnes, await me.

Hiking in the Jerusalem Forest.. Wait, a FOREST?

For several weeks, Meredith, Rebecca, and I had planned on a trip to Masada/Dead Sea for a night tongiht. We would catch the 4:15 bus to Eilat (the driver would drop us off at Masada), check in a hostel (or find a place to sleep on the beach...?), spend the night, then get up. We would climb the snake path to watch the sunrise, walk around, and get down by 8 AM to catch the 8:30ish bus back to Jerusalem. We would stop at the shuk beforehand in Jerusalem to put together a picnic dinner.

All sounds good right? I even checked the Egged site this morning.

Unfortunately, the traffic ran very slow in Jerusalem that we got worried about missing the 4:15 bus (and we really needed to go to the shuk for food). So Rebecca called Egged to see if there'd be two buses running and Egged responded that the last bus for Eilat had already left for the day at 1 PM! We could not believe it!!

Quickly, I came up with an alternative plan that would fit in our timing- a hike in the Jerusalem Forest! So we went to the shuk anyway, and got our picnic dinner of pitas, eggplant, tuna, burekas, and some fruit. Then we walked over to the bus station to find a bus that would take us towards Ein Karem or Yad Vashem but we ended up taking a cab in order not to waste any time (it was already 5 PM). The driver dropped us off in middle of the forest...

We hiked for about an hour before settling in for dinner. The view was just beautiful- you were always looking out towards the south of Jerusalem. The forest reminded me of Maine so much with all the trees!!! I missed Maine at that point. It was hard to believe that we were even here- hiking in a real forest in Israel! Most people think Israel is all desert with some shrubbery here and there but... not a real forest. Actually, JNF (Jewish National Fund) was responsible for making Israel green with all the tree planting. The 1950's saw a lot of that (see the movie Sala Shabbati)

We found an old wine press- thanks to Rebecca the Archeaologist! Rebecca and Meredith explored a cave and found evidence that someone had slept there. That creeped both of them. We had considered just camping out in the forest for the night since we were supposed to spend overnight somewhere in the Dead Sea. Meredith was all picky about what kind of ground she wanted to sleep on but I told them that I'm kind of afraid of the dark in a forest and don't really want to do it. I was sure that it'd be lots of fun just getting away from the apartment with friends but not in a forest.

So we stopped for dinner- found a picnic table. We watch the sun set- it was beautiful!!! We decided that this was just as good as going down to Masada and the Dead Sea- only without the costs and just enjoying the hiking. It didn't even really feel like we were in Jerusalem since Jerusalem generally was visualized with the Old City.

Afterwards, we hiked about 30-45 minutes on this road. We didn't know where we were or going so we just followed a road up the hill, figuring that it had to lead us to somewhere. We all had our flashlights since there was basically no light exept on the other side of the valley, where the residential area was. We were very surprised to be walking past, below, Yad Vashem!!! It was a bit fightening to see the museum looming over me.

We managed to catch the bus. I joked with Rebecca that if she ever wanted to hike, all she'd have to do is catch a bus to Yad Vashem and just walk back down that road instead of taking a cab!!

Upon returning to the apartment, exhausted, we all took refreshing showers. Then the three of us just chilled while the other Meredith and Danielle went out to party in the city. The two planned, with their friends, to stay up until the sunrise since Israelis party so late. They never did- they collapsed by 3:15. So anyway, Meredith, Rebecca, and I played cards for nearly 2 hours until 1 AM. We felt pretty high... I think just a little excited to be awake on a Thursday night of being sleepy and I had forgotten how much I love just being AWAKE in the middle of the night, like the rest of the world is sleeping, you know?

Tis B'Av

Today is Tis B'Av (9th of Av) which is the day that the Romans took over the Second Temple and destroyed it. Every year, for thousands of years, Jews mourn on this day for the destruction of the Second Temple. It is a symbolic event because it was, what most historians consider, the beginning of the Jewish exile. The Jews moved out to the Diaspora, in theri own ways because they had no state, no government, no monarchy, to lead a Jewish empire. Jews fast from sunset to sunset and read the Lamentations. That's the gist of it.

I knew that I'd be around for Tis B'Av but I thought, well, I really don't pay much attention to it... I never did because of being in America as an assimilated Jew who spent lazy summers in the American way. Eseentially, summers meant time off from all the holidays except for the July 4th. Now I am in Israel, I became a little more aware of what it meant. I read several articles relating to this event and giving a modern perspective of how Tis B'Av relates to the State of Israel.

Now I have taken a position. Even though I see the "Second Temple" every day from Mount Scopus, I don't feel that it's necessary to mourn over this. It is upsetting to see that the Dome of Rock sits atop it- it's such a sacred place. I do think that the Dome of the Rock/Temple Mount is really sacred and therefore, I really don't feel comfortable going up there to "claim" it. I had an opportunity to go there but Temple Mount, for some hypocritical reason, is just too sacred for me to step my foot on it. I am much more satisfied over the fact that the Jews hold control of Jerusalem and that is good enough for me in terms of all the religion matters. Jerusalem matters more to me.

The other thing is that I don't believe that we need to do all the observances for Tis B'Av. I am much more stunned over the fact that we do have the State of Israel now, a real Jewish democracy. That is so much more powerful than the loss of the Second Temple. The Jewish democracy now is much, much bigger than it was back when the Jews had a civilization. You have 6 million Jews living on this land in comparsion to several thousand. How can anyone argue that? We fought in many modern wars to peserve the State, not letting the Jewish democracy fall again. The boundaries matter. Yes, I agree, we searched for 2,000 years for the State of Israel but now that's done, we should celebrate it. We celebrate Israel's existence by living and breathing everyday, and accepting the Jewish identity as a national identity.

Therefore, I didn't fast. Instead, I celebrated with French Hill fafafel. The rest of Israel and Jerusalem seem to think so. A lot of restaurants were actually open- as long they were not really certified kosher. Only 30% of Israel actually fast. The shuk was lively as ever (though some venders didn't show up).

On Tis B'Av, I met Sylvie at the Museum of Islamic Art. The collection is wonderful- better than the MET's! We learned a lot- like how the game of chess came to be, the religion, the meaning of the architecture, and how Islam spread over Asia and the consequences of it. We saw beautiful jewelry and glass. The exhibits are in chronological order... very, very long time, starting from Muhammed to the Ottoman Empire. Also, at the end, we saw weaponry. I did not know that it was forbidden in Islam for Muslims to kill another Muslim and they could only declare war- jihad- in order to conquer and to basically wipe out other religion, or at least, make Islam the way of life, the way of government law. They could only kill non-Muslims. I think if I could take my time to learn more about Islam, it could be really fascinating.

Sylvie was doing well- she seemed very much settled in, just basically beyond happiness just to be in Israel. She said, "Now is really the time to be in Israel." She was pulled by this kind of desire, not really anything else. She's observant but happily serving in the Army, living with a family on a kibbutz in the Galilee. She talked to me a bit about her aliyah and how she dealt with it with her family since she's been in Israel, which was my main concern anyway.

Street Performances, Beach, and the Feines

Last Tuesday, when Meredith, Rebecca, and I walked around Ben Yehuda, we watched some of the street performers. I casually joked that Meredith should come here and play her violin for some money.

Well, she did it!!!! She did it with her partner, Mika (an incoming freshman to Yale), who plas ethnic drums. I went with them before I met up with Paige just to help them get set up. Within 5 minutes of playing, they actually had a good crowd! I love hearing Meredith play her violin- she does it soooo beautifully and she's really passionate about it. Here are some of the pictures.

So they earned a grand total of 155 shekelim which is about $40- they each earned $10/hour. I don't know what they're planning to do with the money but Meredith can't wait to get rid of her agoras (the 1/10 of a shekel coin) tomorrow.

While they played, Paige and I went for some fabulous sushi at Sakura, a Japanese restaurant in Jerusalem Courtyard. The fish was unbelievably fresh!!!! Then we talked for a long time over coffee and chocolate afterwards at Cafe Hillel. I love doing this- girls' night out, enjoying good food and conversation.

Friday, I went off to Tel Aviv for the beach. I was supposed to meet up with Uri, an Israeli from May's trip, but I wasn't feeling so good and I didn't really want to meet with him. Fortunately, he developed a migraine and couldn't come in. That was fine with me. The water was really warm for some reason at 12 PM but it cooled down later on... it was just weird. I couldn't cool down for a while, yuck. There was also a volleyball tournament going on nearby.... Of course, I couldn't leave without an Israeli saying "hi!" in a super friendly way... The bus rides weren't bad at all- not as insane as back in June. I wonder why.

For dinner, I went over to the Feines' (Zvi and Ruthie) in Ramot. They had a view of Begin North in front of Jerusalem. It was SOOOO creepy because once I saw it, I knew immediately that before 1967, it was not possible to be standing here. It's one of those moments when you're in a country that fought so hard for land and pushed the borders to make it safer and you realize that you're in once enemy territory. It's really weird- you don't feel that when you're in the US because the US never had to be in that position (except for the Mexican Cession, but that was seriously long time ago and Mexico wasn't exactly a country who wanted to wipe another off the map). Anyway, Ruthie makes a mean goulash- I had double portion because I decided that I'd rather have another portion than to have some goulash AND chicken. She also made some chocolate chip cookies... thank goodness.... And yummy chocolate ice cream. Zvi told me a bit about his trip to Russia that he had just gone on, vsiting the Jewish communities in the Urals. The dinner conversation was all in Hebrew. Fortunately, since they are Americans, they speak like the Americans- slowly. So I could actually follow some of it! I even spoke Hebrew when I could! I noticed the difference in Hebrew between the older and younger generations. I reasoned that being in the Army can change how non-Israelis speak Hebrew since the older generations didn't really serve in the Army in the same ways as their children did. The young people spoke faster Hebrew and really as if it was truly their first language.

It's going to be a long road.

Got it

Cramming!!!!

The countdown REALLY begins!!!!!

On Sunday, I went to the shuk with Rebecca and Meredith to buy more food for the week and finished my thesis at night.... I was soooo glad to be done!! (Now I am waiting for the professor's comments). Actually, my class went to an archeaological dig which I already did in my winter ulpan so I just slept in a bit and worked on my thesis before they returned. I could've just skipped the whole day but I had the urgency to go to class because I love being around Hebrew and I wanted to see how I did on my test (which wasn't handed back unfortunately).

Then on Monday, I got the test back... I got an 87!! I was SOOOO happy!!! We had a lecture on biblical Hebrew alphabet which I slept through the second half... It was interesting while it lasted for me.

For dinner on Monday night, I got together with Nicole and Julianna. We went on a picnic in the park across from Kiryat Wolfson and Nahalaot, the White Rose Park. I made cucumber yogurt soup, bought some burekas, and took along some cantaloupe that I cut up the day before. The girls bought some hummus, grapes, chocolates, and all the paper stuff. It was so nice to see them again and it was the last time I'd see Julianna. It got dark pretty fast since we didn't really sit down to eat until around 7:30. We just basically caught up what we've been doing all summer- Nicole had been with Sar El- volunteering for the Army and is just nannying a bit. Julianna's been doing some research and shadowing at Hadassah hospital.

Yesterday, Meredith and I decided that we'd definitely go to Masada next week. As much I'd like it for this week but it was better for her and Rebecca to do next week. I also realized that Tuesday will be Tis b'Av, a holiday so no classes... so I'll get a chance to hit the beach then. We just pretty much stayed in for the afternoon. I laid out in the sun by the pool at the gym for a bit. Then for dinner, the whole apartment got together and made Italian- pasta with tomato sauce with real veggies in it along with some grated mozzarella. After dinner, Meredith, Rebecca, and I went down to Ben Yehuda for some dessert- I got cappachino frozen yogurt. It weirded me out since it does take like espresso but it's not brown, it's white... so my mind kept thinking it's vanilla while my taste buds said it's espresso!!!

Today, the three of us went straight to the shuk to restock for the weekend after classes because we needed to be back in the village by 4 PM to catch the bus. The bus took us to a Israel Baseball League game!!! It's up by Kibbutz Gezer... about 30-40 minute ride outside of Jerusalem. It's all basically Americans there- even the announcer spoke perfect English. The players are mostly Ameicans- a few AAA players and mostly DIII. It's not really a stadium but it was all more like watching a high school baseball game. It was between Modi'in and Tel Aviv and Modi'in, Rochester's sister city, won! What was so much fun about it was watching all the children!!!! They were soo into the game- literally climbing up the fence to get the balls. They were just so cute. Burger's Bar served as the concession stand so I finally had my burger after waiting a long time. We decided to go just because it's Israel.

Anyway, looks like my last days are going to be crammed with things that I want to do before I go- hanging out with Paige tomorrow night on Ben Yehuda, going to Tel Aviv on Friday to meet up with an Israeli from May's trip, having Shabbat with the Feines... Shabbat... there's next Tuesday for Tis b'Av, then next Thursday/Friday down in the Dead Sea and next Friday's Shabbat with the Bachs... I hope to get to the Museum of Seams and the Ammunition Hill sometimes next week. I'm definitely going back to Yad Vashem- the last Sunday before I go to see my professor, do my bookstore shopping spree, and visit the memorials, which I, sadly, haven't done since birthright.

And at some point, I have to keep studying through so I can pass the level exam this time!